Aluminium Radiators & Engineering Pty Ltd
Unit 11/ 60 Kremzow Rd
BRENDALE  QLD  AUSTRALIA   fax. no.(07) 3206 4691
Ph +61 (07) 3205 4620  info@are.com.au

 

Billet SUMPS


First of our range of minimum compromise engine sumps.

When I built the dry sump system for our shop car, it drove home how expensive it really is, even not counting the very trick billet/girdle sump, - pump, drive, hoses , fittings, oil tank, breather tank are a considerable investment alone. A chance meeting with a machine shop that makes swing arm pick up sumps for the motorcycle market led to a collaboration with them in this design for automotive use. This Nissan SR20 sump is the first of various models we will release, the next three engines we are looking at are the Subaru EJ20, Mazda 13B and Ford Barra 6 cyl.. It is expensive (both time and monetary outlay) to develop and finance the first batch - doing it properly of course !!

Is this the next best thing to a dry sump set up ?

 

This is what Nissan gave you. It holds 1652ml of oil.

 

We believe your engine deserves better - purpose with style. It holds 2916ml. of oil.

 


 Looks good, works even better !

            

Here they are for comparison. The ARE sump holds an extra 1264 ml (1.3 L) of engine 'life blood'! 

 

When cornering left, you have 758ml. of oil totally trapped for the pickup.

 

When accelerating straight, you have 1026ml of oil totally trapped for the pickup.

  

When cornering right, you have 922ml.  totally trapped for the

 

This is the o.e. oil level, showing how far above our base plate the oil is & justifies why I say you could run the level 1/2 way between the full too empty marks.

 

This is the position the pickup is in when cornering to the left.

     

The slots inside the yellow square are the only areas oil can escape, where as the red square is o.e. & other upgrade sumps I've seen. Big difference

    

This is the position the pickup is in when cornering to the right.Pic on left shows for drag racing.

 

You get 48 parts for your money. 7 are cnc milled & 3 are cnc turned. The 35 bolts are stain -less steel allen head cap screws. 4 orings.

There is a min 5mm gap all round & that goes out to 10mm in some corners, allot of oil can get through this. Please read text at bottom.

Looking straight on at the o.e. baffle, it appears to seal good. Hole is large & at rear - not good for drag racing at all. Check pic above

 

The pickup swings on two double sealed ball bearings, retained by a circlip.

 

 

This is the steel sandwich pickup - pump adapter. 2 orings here too.

   

This one customers car that seriously needs  one of our sumps. The oil that runs away from the pickup & up into the crankcase is substantial

   

Our double sided instruction sheet also includes o.e. pump specs. & our torque specs. to assist proper fitment.

  

This is how it arrives to your door.

    Please note the following:-
       
In the three examples above, the oil is totally trapped in the shaded area, not like in the o.e. sump where there is a 5mm (in corners up to 10mm.) gap around the whole baffle plate for the oil to run up into the crankcase, both aerating it, but much more importantly, possibly starving the pickup - there goes your crank/bearings and quite often the camshaft lobes and rockers - very expensive ! The problem is hot oil is very viscous and even under hard street driving, runs up the side of the sump and then up the side of the block a distance. This causes two problems, some oil is flung around by both the rotating crank and air turbulence off it, wasting some hp ( in fact, up to 50hp in a race small block chev - Bill Jenkins Book), but more importantly, there is far less oil around the pickup. Think I'm exaggerating, 1/3 fill a rectangular dish with water, place it on the passengers footwell and go for a drive - make sure you have a few towels under it !!


        The more oil in a sump, the harder it is too contain it's movement from the pickup. We only needed to go 12mm deeper, 39mm to the left and 37mm to the right for total continual oil supply, because when the oil moves, the pickup goes with it.


         The top of the base plate is 49.4mm under the full oil level dip stick mark, so you already have 1.9 litres of oil in the crankcase above the plate, plus the 2.91litres in our sump. With the piston squirters in the turbo engine, I would have no qualms with running the oil half way between the low and high dipstick marks, even for extreme use, unless I was running a high volume pump and 'loose' bearing clearances.  This will help decrease aeration from windage in the crankcase. You have plenty of oil in reserve, trapped in the sump.


        Even though the oil is totally trapped by the base plate and constantly being depleted by being sucked up through the pickup, it is also constantly being replenished by the oil draining down the block sides, although admittedly, not as quick when the direction change is first       instigated, but this is not an issue as the sump volume easily covers this short time period. 


        There is no real point comparing this sump to your o.e. unit, it is just so much superior, so comparing it to a dry sump setup, it does not have the total oil control - although mainly under braking, and it does not have the crankcase vacuum evacuation that a a dry sump pump provides ( there are more tiny droplets of oil in the crankcase air - definitely worth a few kw.), so no, it's not as good, BUT, it weighs much less, is a quarter-sixth the price and does not have the reliability concern of an exposed belt drive.


Price -
 Complete kit  $998.00  Australian.

© Aluminium Radiators and Engineering Pty Ltd (ARE Cooling) - while every effort is made to ensure details and information is correct at time of publishing (November 14, 2007)
please contact ARE by phone, fax or email to confirm prices before order.